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| Before Turbo Upgrade |
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Turbo Back: Apexi GT Spec cat-back exhaust and Perrin downpipe replaces Stock System with a 3 inch Exhaust that tapers to 3.4 inchs, produced great gains on the STi, Apexi Gt spec is a large diameter exhaust that does very well on the STi's 2.5L engine.
Good tone that is not too loud at all, when the silencer was in you it sounded very close to stock. |
| Downpipe Removal: Here are some pictures with the downpipe removed from below the car and the engine bay. This will give you an idea of what you will see when you take the stock downpipe and exhaust off the car. You can see the hot side of the turbo with the exhaust wheel exposed this is where the downpipe is connected to the turbo with 5 bolts. |
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Perrin Turbo Inlet hose install explaination for STi owners! These are pictures of Perrin turbo inlet hose installed, showing the modifications needed. The line that used to attach to the stock turbo inlet hose on the STi close to the turbo does not connect to the inlet hose any longer. The fitting for the hose on the stock inlet pipe must be cut off and reused, this fitting will also need some trimming to allow a hose to be slipped over it, take your time. The extra hose, that used to connect to the turbo inlet hose, will now connect to the fitting that was cut off. The other end of the fitting will be connected to an extra length of hose, that is included by perrin, that will be connected to a T fitting which will connect you into the crank case vent line. The Crank case vent line is connected to the long black metal tubes going across the stock top mount intercooler. |
| Front Mount Install: Here are some pictures taken at different stages during Perrin front mount intercooler installation, new bumper support included with the kit. Installation is not to difficult but bumper cutting can be tedious since you don't want to make a mistake. The bumper cutting is minimal and basically consists of removing the black in sections of plastic in the stock bumper. The piping fits well but can be a hassel to get on with all of the silicone couplers. If you can afford them T-bolt clamps are high recommended since you will not strip them like regular clamps, which we striped a number of during installation. Another note, when taking of the front bumper everything is easy except a plastic screw on each side connecting the bumper to the fender once you get this our once replace it with a screw and bolt so it in the future it is not such a pain, plus plastic screws don't last too long. |
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| Wastegate Porting Tips:These pictures were taken during a wastegate porting job where only the hot side of the turbo is removed. First unbolt the downpipe and uppipe connections to the hot side of the turbo (hot side = exhaust side). Then remove the clip on the wastegate bar connecting the spring to the flapper this allows you to disconnect the hot side of the turbo from the wastegate. Then unscrew the single bolt holding the turbo together, it is a seal so it will need a little finesse, after it is removed the hot side casing and the exhaust wheel will be separate. With the positioning of the uppipe you will need to move the turbo a lot to get the hot side off the uppipe studs, you will most likely need to disconnect the turbo inlet (which is a very annoy part to re-connect) and the turbo to intercooler connection, removing your top mount if you don't have a front mount. After all of this the coolant return line coming from the turbo, running parallel to the uppipe, will probably become disconnected or need to be disconnected to give the turbo enough room to move when taking out the hot side of the turbo (this coolant line is another part that is very annoying to re-connect) But watch for it because it will probably get disconnected so pay attention when reinstalling. Then with the hot side off feel free to port the wastegate yourself or send it out to be ported. Just trace around the flapper and port till you are close to the line just don't go over (it is hard to go over) you can use a dremel or a porting tool if you have one. Don't worry too much just take your time and you will get it right! |
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AVC-R Boost controller install and Clear Corner mod: The Apexi AVC-R boost controller is one of the best electronic boost controllers on the market, it allows for gear based boost settings (for traction) and two different boost settings to allow for a low boost high boost map. The AVC-R also has a highly responsive boost solenoid which gives you total control. The AVC-R fits in a number of places on the WRX / STi but we settled on the ashtry location easy to install and looks good (no cutting!) Wiring the AVC-R is not difficult but must be done at the ECU you need a simple ECU pinout and then all you have to do is splice into a couple of ECU wires (rpm, throttle (not on the sti), speed, power, ignition). This can all be done in about 1-2 hours of your time in the drive way. The Headlight mod was also done to our STi. The 3 Amber peices were removed from the inside of the headlight housing. There is a long write up this on Nasioc so I am not going to reiterate it just HERE to see how it is done. Thank you to 'skivvie,' the author. |
| Exterior Pictures: Pictures of the STi before the car goes in the shop and has the new turbo kit installed, some interestiung photoshoping work was done and some of the pictures have a transparent hood on the car. |
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| Got questions, comments, or anything related to STi's? Feel free to drop me an email Here. -- Jon |
| CLICK HERE to find out about our Project STi T67 installation. |
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