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Installing Perrin Fuel Rails and Power Enterprise Fuel injectors (disassembly):
To start, the car has to be put on a lift or jack stands. First and foremost disconnect your battery and remove it from the car, then proceed with removing the downpipe, stock turbo, and intercooler (only if you are using a top-mount). Next, the intake manifold must be removed, but first all of the wiring harness plugs have to be disconnected. There are a total of 22 connections that will have to be disconnected, if you take your time you will find them all. When you are taking the intake manifold off the car remember to make sure you take the tumbler valves off with the manifold. Keep them together do not take one off after the other or you will have to buy more gaskets, just keep the tumbler valves and intake manifold as one. The bolts holding connecting the assembly to the heads are on the lower level (that will make sense when you are doing it). Pictured here is the wiring harness with all 22 connections you have to unplug to get the manifold out. Now once the manifold is loose of all connections and unbolted from the heads, disconnect the stock fuel rails from the stock fuel lines located on the driver's side by the firewall. This will be annoying so take your time and do NOT cut anything to get it done quicker! After these are disconnected and have leaked on you a good bit, plug them and make sure you never smoke or have any flame/spark even close to your car, or the results could be explosive. Now carefully remove the intake manifold / tumbler assembly from the car.
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Installing Perrin Fuel Rails and Power Enterprise Fuel Injectors (reassembly):
Place the Intake manifold assembly on a towel or some where it will not get scratched up so you can work on it. Unbolt the stock fuel rails from the manifold and remove all clips for wiring. Now you can go about installing the new fuel rail with the braided lines going over the top of the manifold. The new braided Perrin lines are very snug on top of the manifold, so just be careful. With the new rails in place bolt them down(stock torque on the fuel rail bolts is 13.7 ft/lbs so that is suggested). Once the rails are in place you can install the Power Enterprise 850cc injectors, they are pre-lubricated and have O rings already installed they need to pushed down and in and then the securing plates need to be installed (that came with the injectors). Then tighten them down using a torx screwdriver. The injectors have a yellow tip that looks like it might be a cap, it is NOT it is part of the injector do not try and pull it off! Make sure the injectors are seated perfectly, I cannot stress that enough. After everything is secure, reinstall the wiring harness on the intake manifold. Then use NEW gaskets between the heads and tumbler valves, bolt everything down and start plugging all 22 connectors back together. All that is left is reconnect the stock fuel pressure regulator and fuel rails to the fuel lines and check all connections. Now that the fuel system is read, we can move on to the actual turbo installation.
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Header / Uppipe Prep & Install:
Now we turn to the under side of the car. First remove the stock manifold and uppipe from the car. Then take the new GP Moto header and uppipe combination and tap it for an EGT gauge (Greddy 1/8th inch probe was used here) and wrap it with Thermo-Tec for the best results. You will need 3 rolls of 1 inch by 50 ft rolls of Thermo Tec 2 inch wide wrap, 2-inch wrap will take less time but will be hard to get in the smaller areas. You will also need a bag of 20 Thermo Tec clips to secure it to the headers and one can of thermo tec's sealing paint if you want to do it right. First get a place to sit for 2 hours on the floor then take the wrap and wet it down until it is malleable. Then take your time and wrap the header each individual pipe at a time, it will take up to 2 hours so get a friend to switch on and off with you. Then once it is done and secured VERY WELL with clips, let it dry for 24 hours, yes 24 hours! After that, paint over the wrap with the Thermo Tec paint. Make sure you cover all flanges -- do NOT get paint on flanges. Then you have to let the paint dry but that only takes 30 mins so no problems there. It will still get all over you so handle the header as little as possible. WARNING: when using header wrap the first time you turn on your car the wrap will burn in and smoke for 1-3 hours do not worry that's normal!
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Odds and Ends:
At this point the header / uppipe has been installed and torqued properly (23 ft. lbs I believe), make sure you use brand new gaskets. Now some colant lines need to be re-routed and plugged (since the T-67 is not water cooled). The small coolant reservoir mounted on the intake manifold needs to be moved and installed with the supplied brackets in the location of the stock boost solenoid, you can see the new locations in the pictures. The Greddy kit comes with install pictures and all small parts need to get this done. Make sure everything is secure and all lines are ready for the turbo to join the party. One thing we did and we would suggest is make some breathing room in the passenger fender well with a sawzall or cutoff wheel, as you can see in the pictures a good amount of material was removed, this will allow for easy intake and intercooler piping fitment, plus if pipes move during driving they will not scrape the side of those small stock holes in the fenderwell. Use some split vacuum line or tape to cover up the sharp edges.
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Turbo Comparison:
Here are some pictures of the Stock IHI VF39 next to the Greddy T67. There are also some pictures of the engine bay ready for the turbo and a picture of the T67 in pieces. The T67 had to come apart because Greddy had the outlet of the turbo pointed in the wrong direction and it needed to be turned 80 degrees to fit the way it was meant to fit. In case you were wondering, this sucks to do, if this is the case with you it is not that hard you just have to squeeze the ring clamp on the cold side of the turbo together (you will need the pliers for it or you will spend forever doing it -- you can try bending the tips of some needle-nose pliers) and remove it then the cold side comes off and you can rotate it into position and put the ring clamp back in.
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Turbo Install, Intake, & Intercooler Piping:
First the T67 is bolted down and the lines are attached. Then the intake and intercooler piping has to be address. To start we are keeping the MAF sensor since we are using the Turbo XS Utec, not a standalone yet. For the intake we used the piping in the kit and then welded on an extra bung so that we could recirculate the blow off valve. Recirculating is necessary on STi (and all cars with a MAF), don't vent it to atmosphere unless you convert to MAP. After that we used a Perrin BIG MAF pipe (3 inch ID MAF housing). There is a piping size conflict that needs to be fixed in the future (the perrin BIG MAF scales down to fit in the stock turbo inlet hose, which is too small now). That is a battle for another day, however Nevertheless, you can get the Greddy piping to attach to the Perrin BIG MAF using some silicon couplers. Then we used a K&N filter that was sized correctly to fit (measure and then order it). That takes care of the intake now for the intercooler piping. If you have a Perrin Front Mount Intercooler you can do some cutting and buy some silicone connectors to make the piping work. You need to cut the pipe in plain view on the passenger side into three pieces. One piece connects the piping from the T67 to the piping in the fender well, you can see how close they are from the pictures, just one bend. Then on the side where in the piping goes into the throttle body you need to use more of the piping to make it go into the throttle body. You will need silicone couplers, a saw, sand paper and patience; take your time. When you are done the piping will scale up / down by a half an inch in areas, this might bother you, if it does get custom piping made. But I guarantee the scaling up and down will not decrease your power output more than 3 horse power. At this point your engine bay should be done on the top side. Now back down.
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Downpipe & Wastegate Installation:
The next problem with the T67 kit is that the downpipe Greddy supplies is 3 inches too short. It will not bolt up to any cat-back. So you have to extend it, to the left there are some pictures. The end of the downpipe has to be cut off and then an extension is welded in. You need to keep the bung on the downpipe so do not cut too close to what's there, then you need to weld on an additional bung for the wideband sensor you should be installing, it is a MUST with this turbo! After this annoying exhaust work you can bolt up the downpipe and the Type R wastegate included in the kit. Make sure the wastegate is connected to the intercooler piping somewhere to get the boost pressure and your wastegate solenoid, instructions will explain further. I suggest the use of an Apexi AVC-R or another electronic boost controller. Before you install the wastegate you should know that the spring the Type R wastegate is the yellow spring and will allow you to run 0.8 to about 1.4 bar of boost, the Blue spring which you can order might be a better idea it runs from 1.0 to about 1.6 bar of boost (that is what we are using to start), the red spring is only good for 1.5 bar and up (not good for street cars).
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Walbro Fuel Pump Install:
To flow those PE 850cc injectors a Walbro 255lph fuel pump is needed. To install a Walbro on the sti you need to remove the rear seat and get down to the lid on the gas tank that is inside the car. Then in a fully ventilated area you need to start your car (before opening the fuel tank), and pull the power from the pump, you will see the wires going to the pump lid you can pull the plug there, this will power down the pump and release all the pressure. Read the Walbro instructions they should explain everything. Then you need to turn the car off and open the fuel tank. Don't drop the bolts. DON'T DROP THE BOLTS! Then remove the fuel pump assembly place it in a bucket, after that you can go about replacing the stock pump with the walbro and replace the filter at the same time. That should do it just put everything back and restart the car to make sure the tank is sealed and the pump is priming correctly. Also keep an eye on those new injectors to see if there is a leak, if there is one anywhere shut the car down immediately
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Tuner Install & Tuning:
For the final stage the Turbo XS Tuner Pro was installed and the knock sensor was installed on the bottom of the block on the drivers side, pictured on the left. The Tuner was installed in the dash below the aftermarket head unit. The back of the slot below the head unit was cut and the tuner was pushed back and then secured in place. Very good place for display. Then we put the car on the dyno and tuned for 1 bar and then for 1.4 bar. On 93 Octane on a dyno pac the car put out 310whp at 1 bar (14.7 psi) and 370whp at 1.4 bar (20.5 psi) at first we had a yellow spring in the wastegate and could not turn the boost up more than 1.4 bar so we stopped tuning. We also didn't do race gas tunes yet since we are waiting for the tracks to re open in the spring anyway (we will turn to suspension over the winter months here in PA). We have a new blue spring in the wastegate now and will be looking to push 24-25 psi on the street with 93 octance in the spring and our aim will be 410whp, which should be attainable. With the T67 our car is very streetable and full boost is reached by 4100rpms, a very acceptable rpm point. After the car has maxed out the stock EJ257 we will be on to a built engine but we are trying to see the capabilities of the stock EJ257 before bailing out on it.
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| Got questions, comments, or anything related to STi's? Feel free to drop me an email Here. -- Jon |
| CLICK HERE to find out about our Project STi before the Greddy T67 installation. |
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