Installation is time consuming; here are the basics, disconnect your battery first:
I. MSD Tach Adapter (PN 8913): Installation is relatively simple on the tach adapter -- it has four wires -- fine a good spot to mount it (we chose the bottom of the battery tray) and connect the wires like this:
1. Black -- Ground (connect to negative terminal of the battery)
2. Strip back the conduit around the wires going into the coil, disconnect the connector, and cut the green wire w/ an orange stripe going into the coil connector.
3. Connect the red wire w/ a green strip from the tach adapter to the end of the green/orange wire going towards the coil.
4. Connect the solid red wire to the end of the green/orage wire going towards the ECU.
5. Connect the gray wire to the AVC-R's purple wire -- this is the tach signal.
II. Situate the AVC-R: We chose to put it next the stock boost gauge, which will certainly be replaced with a more useful gauge since it is now obsolete. Here is how to get it there:
1. Remove the panel under the driver's legs (2 screws), both a-pillars (just pull), the dash top (one screw on either side by the doors and two screws in the center vent), and pull up the plastic trim by the gauge cluster above the column
2. Put your AVC-R next to the stock boost gauge, in the little indent, run the cable out of it through the stock gauge pod, into the dash, down through the cluster and under the steering column -- get it close to the hood latch. There won't be much slack at all -- zip tie it loosely so that it is routed away from the pedals/anything dangerous.
III. Run your Wiring: This is difficult because the AVC-R, like most aftermarket electronics, will have to have its harness extended to fit in the SRT-4. There are two ways to get the wiring into the passenger compartment, we chose to copy Mopar's directions for installing Stage 2 rather than mess with the under-dash wiring bulkhead. These are instructions for going through the driver's side door to get under hood.
1. Close your hood and remove the two plastic caps on the windshield wipers. Unbolt the wipers.
2. Remove the four torx screws holding on the plastic vent-piece at the base of the windshield and lift it out.
3. Run your AVC-R's harness through the wiper pan, put the plastic connector that goes to the head unit through the fender into the doorjamb, pry out the rubber cap in the door jamb, then reach in under the dash and pull out the rubber cap just over the hood release.
4. Pull your AVC-R's harness partially through the hole in doorjamb and through the bottom hole, plug the connector into the headunit plug, which should be right there. Finish the zip-tie job, you can close your dash up too if you want.
5. Trim the rubber plug you took out of the doorjamb to fit around the wires and reinstall it.
6. Route the wiring for the AVC-R pressure sensor, boost solenoid, and unterminated ends for the ECU out of the pan (make sure they clear the wiper motor, etc.) and over into the driver's side corner of the engine bay by the strut tower. You can follow the stock wiring harness along the strut towers, around the fuse box, and just behind the driver side headlight.
IV. Tap the ECU: Unless your SRT-4 is 3 feet shorter than mine, there is a 99% chance that the AVC-R wiring harness will not be long enough, this being the case, I highly reccomend getting the proper gauge wire and proper color if possible from Home Depot, Radio Shack, Lowes, etc.
1. Disconnect your battery -- if you didn't do this already you have a set of brass ones.
2. Disconnect the three connectors on the ECU (push the red clip forward, then you can unclip them)
3. Get a copy of the SRT-4 ECU pinout -- a search for "Ecu pinout" on www.srtforums.com will do the trick.
4. A steady hand, a little soldering and a bunch of shrink wrapping and reconduting later, and you're good to go. Reconnect the PCM connectors.
V. Mount the Pressure Sensor: I used zip ties to attach the pressure sensor to the bracket for my Perrin intake, there are several places it can be installed (either with zip ties or screws) -- just keep 2 things in mind: 1. it should be close to the throttle body and 2. It must be able to reach the connector from the AVC-R harness. Keep it simple.
1. Plug it in.
2. Use a vacuum tee on one of the vacuum lines going into the throttle body, run the open end to the pressure sensor.
VI. Mount the Solenoid: This is a pain. For lack of a better place and not having any scrap metal floating around to make a bracket, I mounted mine right behind the driver's side headlight to be near the other wiring and vacuum lines.
1. Hold the solenoid up to the radiator support, mark the four holes on the metal.
2. Drill them out carefully
3. Install one of the brass fittings into "COM," one into "NO" on the solenoid.
4. Install the solenoid using four self-tapping screws -- make sure the rubber pad that comes with it is under it.
5. Plug it in to the AVC-R harness.
VII. Finish Electrical, Start Vacuum: Make sure your electrical connections are tight, zip tie everything off, and use plastic shrouding to cover any exposed wiring -- think of it as a chance to show off your talents with electrical tape. Once that is done, it's time to move on to vacuum routing.
1. Remove your intake/stock airbox
2. Locate the green line that goes into the back of the turbo.
3. Remove the rubber section of the green line, cut it (or use new line), and insert a vacuum tee into it.
4. Run a line from the open fitting on the tee to the "NO" port of the AVC-R solenoid.
5. Remove the black line from the wastegate actuator and cap it (you can cut it down by the solenoid to clean things up if you want).
6. Run a line from the wastegate actuator nipple to the "COM" port on the AVC-R solenoid, you will most likely have to use a line size reducer at some point to make a clean connection.
7. Zip tie EVERYTHING.
VIII. Testing/Initial Setup: Reconnect your battery, get in the car, turn the key to "on", don't start it yet. Set your AVC-R to "OFF".
1. Go into the "Etc." Menu
2. In "CAR" set the following: CYL 4, SPD 8, THR /
3. Turn on your car
4. Go back out to the main menu, hit "Monitor" -- 4 Channel -- Boost, throttle, rev, and speed.
5. Make sure these readouts are all correct (the speedo has KM/H readings on the inside for our Canadian friends).
6. Verify that your sensors are all connected properly to the AVC-R.
7. If all is good, go ahead and reinstall the wipers, wiper pan, etc. Put your whole car back together and zip tie the hell out of it.
IX. Setup: Read the book now. Read it carefully. Resist the urge to set the boost above 1.0 Bar.
1. I would reccomend not turning the AVC-R's boost control on until you have had set up all of your gears.
2. Tip: Start with a low boost, .8 for instance, before going higher -- learn how to set solenoid duty and adjust it by RPM. Adjust all your start duties in various gears and do some testing. Learning how to use the unit is key to eliminating part-throttle boost, spikes, etc.
The end result? This is an amazing product -- Apexo always does their homework. The AVC-R is probably the most expensive boost controller on the market, and undoubtably the most complex, but if you're willing to learn how to use it and adjust its settings, it will integrate itself flawlessly into your day-to-day driving routine. Aside from its blue screen (that is an excellent match for the SRT-4's interior), you will not even notice it's there after a while. You can cut the boost in first and second, reducing wheel-hop and making for steadier, more calculated launches. This is one of the best products you can install on your SRT-4, and we highly reccomend even trying it with the stock wastegate actuator.