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Invidia Downpipe, Invidia O2 Housing, and Turbo XS Race Pipe

O2 Removal - Downpipe Installation

So it was time to make some more power on JSC Speed's project Evo 8, and what better way than to complete the exhaust, all the way to the turbo. This is a complex installation, if you don't know what you are doing, leave it to the pros. And buy new gaskets before you get into this. FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
	STEP 1: Stock Downpipe Removal: Basically, before you do anything you're going to want to remove the stock downpipe, here are the steps on how to proceed. 1. Remove the stock plastic undertray (this uses about 25 or so of those plastic rivets, start with the outer ones (around the bumper edges) and you can figure out which ones inside actually hold it up. It's much easier to take this panel off in 1 piece. 2. You should be looking at something like the image to the left. Now, remove the two factory under bars (5 14mm bolts). 3. Remove the two bolts (17mm, I believe) connecting the rear of the cat to the catback exhaust. 4. Next, carefully remove the two 14mm spring bolts that connect the downpipe to the O2 housing. I advise using a lot of PB Blaster on these bolts, as they are very easy to snap into the O2 housing.
5. Now unbolt the two rubber exhaust hangers that hold the downpipe in place (I believe these bolts are 12mm). You should now be able to remove the downpipe from the car. 6. Remove the stock metal sleeves from the rubber exhaust hangers (if your downpipe uses slip-through rather than bolt-on hangers. You're done removing the downpipe.

Step 2: Stock O2 Housing Removal: If you're not changing the O2 housing, skip this. If you are changing O2 housings, or your broke a bolt taking the downpipe off, then follow these steps. PLEASE NOTE: This is a very delicate installation and there are numerous ways to do it. You can do some serious damage if you screw this up, so follow these directions at your own risk. 1. Remove the rubber coupler in the stock lower intercooler pipe (2 hose clamps) and remove the bolt behind it (14mm I believe) that attaches the stock O2 housing to the engine block. The picture to the left jumps the gun a little bit, but it's to help locate that bolt. You should see the bracket on the O2 housing that attaches the block once the downpipe is off.

2. You're now going to work from up top. 3. Remove the heatshield that covers the manifold (3 12mm bolts) 4. Next, remove the coil cover (plastic piece that says Mitsubishi on it, 4 x 12mm bolts). Then unplug the O2 sensor and leave the cover off. 5. remove the engine lift loop from the cylinder head (1 12mm bolt just above the exhaust manifold - shown in the top left of the picture to the left) 6. Remove the O2 sensor from the stock O2 housing, being careful not to hit the radiator (if you chose to leave it in). 7. Now remove the heatshield from the O2 housing (3 x 12mm bolts). You're going to want a ratcheting box-end wrench for this, since there is hardly any room. PB blaster them first, as they take a long time to get off and don't move easily.

8. Remove the 9 bolts (7 x 12mm and 2 x 14mm) holding the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. 9. Remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts (all 14mm) holding the manifold to the turbocharger. 10. Put something (I used a piece of cardboard) between the turbo and the radiator to protect it. 11. Now pull the O2 manifold away from the block, this is a difficult process, but you basically want to lever it on the O2 housing and pull it upwards. It's tough, but it's doable.

12. You should now be looking at something like the picture to the left. 13. Remove the cotter pin that attaches the wastegate arm to the O2 housing (use needle-nose pliers). Gently pull the arm towards you to pop it off the stock O2 Housing. 14. Now call a friend, or if you have one handy, have them hold the stock O2 housing with both hands.

15. PERFORM THIS NEXT STEP CAREFULLY AND AT YOUR OWN RISK 16. Undo the center clamp on the turbo (I believe it is 10mm). Spin it around and remove the bolt. 17. With your buddy holding the exhaust portion of the turbo, pull it apart (you might need to gently pry it apart with a flathead screwdriver -- do not push it in too deep). 18. LIFT THE EXHAUST HOUSING STRAIGHT BACK SO YOU DO NOT DAMAGE THE TURBO BLADES! 19. Then lift the O2 housing up and out of the car.

20. You should now be looking at something like the picture above. 21. Take your stock O2 housing/turbo hotside assembly and douse the 5 bolts connecting them in PB blaster multiple times.

22. Remove the 5 bolts, once you can get them to move, you may have to use a breaker bar, and a combination of a pipe and open-ended wrench to loosen them up. 23. Replace the gasket between the stock O2 housing and turbocharger hotside with a new one; you don't want a leak here. Then bolt the new O2 housing to the turbo hotside. Note that with most aftermarket O2 housings, you can't torque the bolts as there isn't enough room for a wrench. In addition, start slow, you might have to put the bottom nuts in first before you tighten the others. Also, attach the O2 housing bracket from your stock O2. 24. Tighten these as tight as they go, then use some anti-seize on the stock O2 sensor and install it into your new O2 housing.

25. Carefully place the new assembly onto the turbo, and reinstall the center clamp tightly. You should now be looking at the picture to the left. 26. Put a new gasket on the turbo, and a new gasket on the exhaust manifold studs; again, you don't want leaks. 27. Slip the wastegate arm back onto the turbo hotside and re-insert the cotter pin.

28. Route your O2 sensor wire out of the way, you may have to extend it later. 29. Reinstall the manifold - torque the 12mm nuts to 22+/- 2 ft-lb and the 14mm nuts to 36 +/- 4 ft-lb. 30. Torque the 4 14mm nuts and bolts between the manifold and turbo to 48 +/- 3 ft-lb. 31. Reinstall the manifold heatshield and engine lift loop. 32. Now plug the O2 sensor back in -- if you're using an O2 housing like Invidia, you will have to extend the wiring, simply solder extensions into the 4 wires. Then plug it back in, bolt down the connector, and put the coil cover back on. 33. Go back down below, reinstall the 14mm bolt that attaches the O2 housing to the block and put the rubber section back into your intercooler pipe - tighten the clamps. You're done with this part.

	STEP 3: Downpipe Install: This is essentially a reversal of step 1. 1. Slip your new downpipe into the factory hangers, you may want to grease them so it goes on easily. 2. Make sure the donut gasket is in place on the stock O2 housing, and push the downpipe up to it, reinstall the spring-loaded 14mm bolts. If they look damaged in any way, replace them -- it's about $10 for both. 3. Reinstall the factory cat; if you're using a cat-pipe or aftermarket cat, just bolt it to the back of the downpipe and front of the catback and tighten everything up. 4. Depending on what downpipe you're using and what year your Evo is, you might need to shim the under bars. Just place washers between the bar and the frame of the car until it clears the downpipe.
Before you put it all back together, leave the stock underpanel off and drive the car around to burn off any finish on the downpipe, O2, etc. let the car get warm, and drive it around. Check for exhaust leaks, etc. I like to the leave the car overnight, and then retorque everything in the morning so it has been through one heating/cooling cycle. Then reinstall the lower panel and route your O2 sensor wiring permanently and you're all set. THE END RESULT: The car screams after this install, spool up seems to be slightly faster, and the top-end power is awesome. This is definately and excellent course of modficiations for the Evo.

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