| JSC Speed Project GT35R STi: Phase 3 |
|
|
My Greddy Catch Can was telling me I had a serious problem. The catch can would be completely fill up in 2-3 days. This is not normal at all. The last place I decided to look for this oil blow by problem was a compression test. I had been dreading this because I was pretty sure the motor was blown. Sure enough - compression was down in the #4 cylinder. This is where PHASE 3 really begins. I could have driven the car like this for a while, but the gas mileage was terrible, and I was losing a lot of oil. A few days later we had set up a date to pull the motor and start the tear down. |
| A few years ago I thought that Subaru motors were very difficult to work on. I have since changed my opinion. This motor came out easier than a Honda motor! To simplify things, all you have to do is unbolt some accessories, exhaust, and plugs, and the motor pulls right out the top leaving the trans, axels, and everything else in the bay. We had it out and half way stripped down in less than 2 hours. | |
|
|
|
|
| One thing I always do before I do an involved process like this is take a ton of pictures. Take these pictures from a lot of different angles, and anywhere you might go back to and be confused about what goes where. This has saved me on countless occasions. I also used about 30 plastic baggies with labels on them. All exhaust bolts in one bag, motor mount bolts in another, etc. This keeps things very organized, and insures that all bolts go back where they belong. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| With the motor out - we unbolted most of the easy stuff and brought it over to R/T Tuning in Lansdale PA. They would be installing CP Pistons, Eagle Rods, ARP Head Studs, and assembling everything needed to get it ready to drop back in. I decided to go with oversize pistons, so some machining of the block was needed. At this point I decided to also get the rotating assembly balanced. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| In the mean time, I moved my focus towards the tumbler delete modification. This is one of those free modifications that you just can't resist when you car is in this position. This part of the car is mainly used on start up to choke the engine. There are butterfly flappers and rods running through these ports that are restricting the flow. This took a couple days to complete, but I think it was well worth it. There are screws holding the rods in place, but they are stubborn and will most likely need to be drilled out. Once you have removed the rods and flappers, you can start removing material from the inside. Once I had the inside nice and smooth, I tapped the holes left by the motors and I put in bolts with loctite. The bolts stick out a bit into the intake area, and I took the dremel to them as well making a nice smooth transition. They are done and ready to go back into the car! The only negative effect is some people experience a rough start up - I haven't noticed this. |
|
|
|
|
| The engine was now back and ready to be dropped in. It was time to pick a turbo setup for this monster. The only option that made sense was the Perrin GT35R. This is one of the biggest turbos you can "practically" put on a street car. Spool is a good amount slower than stock - but once your in boost it doesn't fall out and keeps pulling hard to redline. The install was pretty straight forward. You remove all the exhaust pluming and stock turbo. The newest version of the Perrin Turbo Kit comes pre setup so the install is very simple. Bolt in the downpipe and uppipe, get the turbo in place and set up the new feed and return lines. New lines need to be set up for the coolant and oil. This only takes a few minutes. There are some other small details I left out, but overall this turbo kit is easier to install that putting stock parts back on! |
|
|
|
|
| To compliment the big turbo and high boost, I decide an AEM methanol injection kit would help keep the motor safe, and add some big power as well. Again, this was another simple installation. If you wanted - you could have this kit "running" in 10 minutes, but the install can become lengthy depending on how you want to mount everything. I chose to put the tank and pump in the trunk. Once you run the wires and meth line down the side of the car - the rest is just a matter of how pretty you want it to look. I used a bracket to hold the tank to the side of the trunk, and drilled holes to mount the pump. The AEM meth kit is very affordable, and has the similar features of a more expensive kit - I would definitely recommend this kit. |
|
|
| This car hit the dyno at Automaster in NY and made some serious power. A stock STi reads out at 200whp on this dyno. This car put down 490whp! On the street it is a bit out of control. It is sometimes hard to get traction - even with AWD! |
|