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Powerslot Rotor and Hawk HPS Brake Upgrade
This is the guide to how I installed my powerslot rotors and Hawk HPS pads into my 2004 WRX sedan. Generally this install guide will apply to all WRXs (wagons and sedans) from 2002-2005.
NOTE:I developed this guide using my own knowledge as well as information researched from resources such as specialized online forums. The information on this page is meant to be a GUIDE and in no way should be considered official installation instructions. Use this guide at your own risk. If at any time you are not sure that you are doing something properly, please seek the advice or services of a professional.
Tools Needed:
  • Ratchet
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • Jack/jack stands
Highly Recommended (but not required):
  • Torque wrench
  • PB Blaster
  • Breaker bar
  • Wire brush
Special Recommendation: Before the install go to your local hardware store and get a few 8mm x 1.25 x 1” length metric bolts. They should only cost 30 cents or so each. Put these somewhere safe- you will thank me later.
1. Safely jack up the car with jack stands and remove the wheel you plan to be working on. I started with the passenger front rotor and brake caliper assembly.
2. Remove the two 14mm bolts that attach the caliper onto the caliper bracket.
3. Remove the 12mm bolt that attaches the brake line to the strut. (this is to give you more ‘slack’ in the brake line)
4. Find something to rest the caliper on (I used a jug of rock salt) DO NOT just let the caliper just hang on the brake line.
5. Remove the two 17mm caliper bracket bolts. You may need to use a breaker bar to get these loose.
6. Once you get the caliper bracket free, you can begin to remove the rotor from the hub.
7. Remember the 8mm x 1.25 bolts that I told you to get? Screw them into the release holes on the rotor. Slowly tighten them to force the rotor loose from the hub. DO NOT use two 8mm bolts found somewhere randomly on your car to remove your rotors. I tried using the 8mm intercooler mount bolts and I stripped both of them, forcing me to go to the hardware store and buy replacements. Learn from my mistake and just get extras!
8. Once the rotor is off, clean off the rotor hub of rust and debris with a wire brush, you want to mount the new rotor onto the cleanest surface possible.
9. Take the metal spacer plates from the back of old brake pads and place them onto your new pads. If you are replacing your pads with new OEM pads, they should have come with replacement plates and you can skip this step. Some people that report that the Hawk pads are noisy, but I think the noise may be a side effect of improper pad fitment due to not reusing the backing plates. Mine have yet to make any noise.
10. Bolt the caliper bracket back to the knuckle and torque the bolts to 59ft/lbs
11. Place the new pads and spacer plates into the caliper bracket (they only go in one way but make sure they are seated correctly
12. Now comes the tricky part of retracting the pistons. Most likely if your old pads were worn down pretty far, the pistons in the caliper are now sticking out too far, and you won’t be able to mount the caliper back onto the new pads. A number of other write-ups on pad replacement say to use a block of wood and a C-clamp on the pistons to recess them enough to fit over the new pads. This works fine, but when I did it, it caused my brake fluid reservoir to overflow and spill into my engine pay and onto the floor. I would recommend taking a syringe or turkey baster and sucking out some of your brake fluid first to avoid spillage.
13. After the pistons clear the pads, reinstall the caliper to the caliper bracket using the two 14mm bolts. These bolts should torque to 27.5 ft/lbs. There you go! One down, four to go.
14. The rest of the wheels are pretty much identical except for a few things-
  • Make sure the parking brake is in the OFF position before trying to remove the rear rotors.

  • Both the caliper and caliper bracket bolts are all 14mm on the rear brakes.
  • Torque spec for the rear caliper to bracket bolts are 27.5 ft/lbs.
  • Torque specs for the rear caliper bracket to knuckle bolts are 39.1 ft/lbs.
  • It’s not a bad idea to bleed your brake lines to ensure your new brakes work properly.
  • Make sure to follow all manufacturers specifications when braking in new pads or rotors.
Powerslot Rotor and Hawk HPS product review
Compared to my stock rotors, which where pretty badly warped, the powerslot rotors and hawk pads have make a incredible difference. My brakes no longer feel mushy and inconsistent, but crisp, sharp and predictable. Pedal feel is a bit firmer since I also flushed and bled my brake fluid after installing my new brakes. I was very careful to break in both the pads and the rotors exactly to the manufacturers specifications and as a result I feel much safer and more confident that I will be able to maintain control over my car in a panic brake situation. I would definitely recommend this combination of brake components for those who are looking for a significant street or daily driver braking upgrade to their WRX. Those looking to upgrade their track or competition cars may want to consider a more aggressive pad composition, or completely upgrading to a big brake conversion kit. The only thing I regret is not putting in a set of stainless steel brake lines while I already had the brakes all torn apart-- oh well, live and learn.
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